The Paphos Theatre rises above trench 11B (foreground) which revealed part of the medieval structure and evidence of Roman landscaping.
Archaeology has fascinated Danny Blackman (BA 鈥73) since she was 12 and first heard of the work of German archaeologist Heinrich Schleimann, who famously excavated Troy in the 19th听century. Blackman went on to take a few archaeology subjects while majoring in English and history at the University of Sydney.
鈥淕oing to the Mediterranean to do a dig听was far beyond my wildest dreams,鈥 she says. 鈥淚t wasn鈥檛 something I thought I听would ever do.鈥
This was in the 1960s, when there was little interest in fieldwork in Australia and archaeological study relied on visual material such as slides. After graduation, Blackman put her interest to one side to pursue a more 鈥榮ensible鈥 public sector career in librarianship, research and policy, and听industrial relations.
Almost 40 years later, a friend looking for an offbeat holiday asked Blackman to join her as a volunteer at the University鈥檚 Paphos Theatre Archaeological Project. Blackman didn鈥檛 take much convincing.
The University has been excavating the site of the ancient Hellenistic-Roman theatre at Paphos, the ancient capital of Cyprus, since 1995. Initiated by Professor of Classical Archaeology Richard Green AM, the self-funded project relies on students, professional archaeologists and volunteers like Blackman, who spend three to six weeks at the site during its annual excavation season.
Dr Craig Barker (BA 鈥96 PhD 鈥05) participated in the first dig at Paphos as an archaeology student and has been part of the project ever since. In 2007 he became its director, a role he dovetails with his job as Manager of Education and Public Programs at Sydney University Museums.
Left to right: Dr Craig Barker, artist in residence Emeritus Professor Diana Wood Conroy (BA 鈥66), and Paphos local and cultural events coordinator Yiannis Sakellis.
The site was largely covered in soil when the project began. Years of strategic digging has uncovered paved Roman roads, an ancient nymphaeum (water fountain) and Paphos鈥 famous semi-circular theatre.
鈥淚f you stand in front of it now, it looks like a theatre,鈥 says Barker of the 2000-year-old ruins. 鈥淵ou听can see the orchestra where the chorus would have performed, and the seats. We鈥檝e also revealed the foundations of the old stage building, where the actors performed.鈥
Barker says the 250 or so volunteers who have participated in the Paphos project across its 23-year history have been instrumental in uncovering this architecture. 鈥淭hey鈥檝e found everything from small ceramic sherds, as they鈥檙e called, to larger marble sculptural pieces.鈥
Not everyone spends their days shovelling dirt with a spade; volunteers are encouraged to work within their physical limits, doing everything from digging and pot washing to sorting and recording finds. Nonetheless, it鈥檚 hard slog. 鈥淧eople aren鈥檛 coming just听to brush away some dirt and find a gold coin,鈥 says Barker.
It鈥檚 enough to keep Blackman going back for more. 鈥淚n my first season, I helped excavate the tunnel under the orchestra floor,鈥 she says. 鈥淭here鈥檚 fewer than a dozen tunnels in the hundreds of ancient theatres. From that point, I was hooked!鈥 Now seven seasons in, Blackman is the project鈥檚 archivist, registering finds and coordinating their processing by听field photographers and illustrators.
Student and volunteer team members sort through and begin processing ceramic finds from the Hellenistic to Medieval eras.
鈥淪eeing artefacts as they鈥檙e discovered is a far cry from the slide shows of undergraduate days,鈥 she says. 鈥淢ost of us are older and many, like me, saw no possibility of working in archaeology after graduation. We鈥檙e not necessarily looking for a second career, but听we learn how to appreciate the skills of those working at Paphos.鈥
The backgrounds of the Paphos volunteers are varied, and not all have dabbled in archaeology before. Some, like Blackman, have an ongoing role, while others go from one dig to another.
鈥淚t鈥檚 a fantastic way to see the country,鈥 Blackman says. 鈥淔rom Agatha Christie鈥檚 writings on archaeology, you鈥檇 think archaeological digs were a long way from anywhere. One of the charms of this dig is you鈥檙e actually working within a provincial city.鈥
Blackman counts coffee shops, bars and restaurants among her regular haunts whenever she visits Ktima Paphos, and she loves the local markets. She鈥檚 formed friendships she wouldn鈥檛 have made as a tourist and visited many other historical sites in听Cyprus.
Danny Blackman in a rarely found orchestra floor tunnel.
The Paphos project has made great strides in understanding the ancient Nea Paphos Theatre. Barker and colleagues have used discovered remains听to map the ancient theatre with photogrammetric technology and develop a virtual reality app depicting the theatre during its heyday, around 150听AD.
鈥淭he discovery of Roman roads has opened the way for the project to better understand Roman urbanisation. Aside from revealing more about the听Roman Empire, ongoing excavations would likely offer some lessons to modern urban planners,鈥 says听Barker.
鈥淭he theatre was part of a complex urban structure. There鈥檚 likely to be a Roman bathhouse nearby, and certainly Roman city gates.鈥
With the ongoing support of volunteers听鈥 who pay their own travel and accommodation costs 鈥 and donations, there is scope for the project to continue for years to come.
Blackman certainly hopes so: 鈥淎s听long as they don鈥檛 mind having me there, I鈥檒l keep putting my hand up to go.鈥
The Cyprus dig invites you to get your hands dirty by volunteering for next year鈥檚 season in听September鈥揙ctober 2019. For details, email Craig Barker at craig.barker@sydney.edu.au. If you鈥檇 rather dig deep the other way, your financial support would also be very welcome - .听
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Written by Jocelyn Prasad
Photos provided by Craig Barker
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