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Opinion_

How to rock white sneakers without eco-guilt

14 December 2017
Should you avoid fast fashion?
Iconic Stan Smiths can be styled with almost anything, but most white sneakers are costly to the environment. Lisa Heinz, a PhD candidate in the Sydney Environment Institute, explains the alternatives.

White sneakers look great with nearly everything on nearly everybody, so it鈥檚 no surprise they鈥檙e having a fashion moment. Adidas sold听听of their iconic Stan Smiths in 2015 (and that doesn鈥檛 include the lookalikes).

狈别补谤濒测听听buy a pair of sporting shoes in any four-week period. This amounts to a staggering听. Globally, Nike sells听.

But have you ever considered the environmental impact of your favourite sneakers? From materials to manufacturing, they have a hidden cost 鈥 but it is possible to find shoes that don鈥檛 cost the Earth.

A pair of runners produces 13kg of CO

While little research has been done on the environmental impact of fashion, one study has found that the production of a pair of running shoes emits听. The production of the materials involved, including听, also takes an environmental toll.

Sneakers have a high carbon footprint as, unlike other types of shoes, they typically have many distinct parts. This involves steps like injection molding, foaming, heating, cutting and sewing.

Where the shoes are made is also a factor. Overwhelmingly, the world鈥檚 sneakers come from China: in 2016 they represented 76.8% of the the听. China鈥檚 factories are听, increasing their environmental impact.

Making a shoe

So let鈥檚 give your sneakers a quick look. The story behind the primary materials of leather, synthetic leather and rubber have a greater environmental cost than you think.

Leather

Leather tanning as an industry is听. Facilities need large amounts of water for treatment, and generate significant amounts of solid and liquid waste, which impacts听.

It鈥檚 also costly to human health, using听听and heavy metals like chromium that have been听听in leather workers.

Finally, the majority of leather is cowhide, which has a large environmental impact. The beef industry is the听. It is responsible for听听from livestock.

As an alternative:听Look for chrome-free leather, vegetable tanned leather or leather alternatives like听, which is made from pineapple leaves.

Synthetic leather

Synthetic leather, which is used in the liner of most sneakers (as well as vegan footwear) may be more eco-friendly than leather, but it鈥檚 still not perfect. It鈥檚 typically made from plastics like听, which contain their own harmful chemical ingredients. And unlike leather, it鈥檚 not biodegradable.

As an alternative:听Look for vegetable tanned leather, 笔颈帽补迟别虫, recycled PET or textiles like hemp, jute, wool, or organic cotton.

Rubber

Most sneakers use synthetic rubber in the soles. They are made from听听and are treated with chemical compounds. Like other synthetic materials, manufacturing rubber uses energy and water and creates waste. Chemicals can also leach from the shoe as the sole wears down.

Sustainable alternatives

Lucky for us, we are spoiled for choice when it comes to sustainable alternatives to everyone鈥檚 favourite casual sneaker. You can check your favourite brands against independent NGOs like听, the听听辞谤听, or try the eco-friendly brands below (their claims are largely self-reported, so it鈥檚 a good idea to look up their ratings as well).

The ethical sneaker preferred by fashionistas. They鈥檙e made with completely sustainable materials including a range of vegetable tanned leathers, organic and Fairtrade cotton, recycled plastic, wild rubber, jute and hemp. They are also ethically produced in their Brazilian factory

Made in a toxic-free, ethical factory in Portugal using naturally renewable and sustainably harvested materials. No toxic dyes are used on the products, which are primarily made of 笔颈帽补迟别虫, organic cotton, wool, coir (a mix of coconut husk and natural latex), cork, chrome-free leather and natural rubber.

Vegan sneakers using recycled plastic bottles for the uppers. The company goes the extra mile by using organic cotton laces and recycled rubber soles, and plants one tree for every pair of shoes sold.

This ethical footwear company makes great use of cork, 笔颈帽补迟别虫, recycled PET and paperboard. It also uses a carbon-neutral manufacturing system to create its vegan sneakers.

The soles of these vegan sneakers are made from recycled tires. The shoes鈥 uppers are made of organic cotton canvas, banana leaves and grass. All shoes are handmade, avoiding manufacturing emissions.

Most importantly, avoid fast fashion

The best way to reduce the environmental cost of your sneakers is to hang onto them for as long as you can (fortunately, white sneakers are a classic look).

The 鈥渇ast fashion鈥 business model means garments and accessories are听. You can听听by gently washing them and polishing them until they are no longer wearable.

Have some good quality sneakers you just aren鈥檛 wearing? Take them to your听听or check out听听to make a donation.

Have some really worn sneakers? Nike recycles any sneakers with their听听program (not just their own brand) and turns them into Nike Grind, a material used to create courts, tracks, playgrounds and fields. All US-based stores accept worn sneakers; this program is not available in Australia, but if you鈥檙e feeling keen, you can mail them听.

This article was first published on The Conversation as . It was authored by , PhD candidate at the University of Sydney.

Katie Booth

Media & PR Adviser (Business School)

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